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Words of wisdom
From Tim # All consultants want to work as much as possible on a project, for as long as possible. If you want results back in a timely fashion, you have to go after them otherwise they'll be more than happy to keep pushing your project to the backburner (but be polite, setting a schedule is usually the best approach). # This also means that consultants are more than happy to misunderstand your design intent since the corrections are paid by the client (and if the client doesn't pay, then you don't get an engineer's stamp, for instance). As pertains to the engineers, I would recommend drawing up all of your details as you want them in the project before going to the engineer for an estimate. Specify special wall types in the drawings, as anything not filled in will eventually be whatever the industry standard is (and that's reinforced concrete for foundations and wood stud framing for walls). Make all those decisions before going to the engineer, as if he has to recalculate for a different wall type or floor system, he'll charge you for that despite the fact that he shouldn't have made assumptions. # For unconventional construction and design, pay heed to the energy code. I'm not sure what your friends have in mind or where they're building, but most jurisdictions have some rules about what sort of glazing and in what quantity you are allowed. They may, for instance, stipulate that if you seek unlimited glazing, then the glazing unit must exceed a rated U-value of 0.3. This may not sound so bad, but it can really limit the product choices you have at the end which will have an impact on appearance, performance, or cost (or all three). Additionally, they may also require that you have a certain insulative value for your walls which can really complicate detailing if you were shooting for, say, exposed concrete on both sides of a wall that has to be R-38 (which means you have to somehow pack the insulation inside the wall). # Visit the planning department and ask them for a checklist of all the things required for a single family permit. Most jurisdictions have such a thing for the intake desk just to make sure all the major documents are there, but it's also a great outline and way to organize your efforts while developing your design. # Planning departments also usually have a bunch of guideline documents that detail their requirements (if any) for street modulation, roof slopes, finishes, etc. You might be surprised at the sorts of rules planning departments have laid down, as we hear a lot about personal property and liberty in this country. When it comes to houses and their appearances, however, there may be some ridiculous laws in place regarding that sort of stuff and it's best to learn what those are at the start and also if they're requirements that can be appealed (for a fee). # Check water and utility availability before purchasing land. If no utilities are available, check what the cost of getting them installed will be, as this can be a substantial percentage of the project cost (Renton, for instance, wants something like $20k for the rights to connect to the water main and sewer pipes; that doesn't even include materials and labors to actually make the connection). Also make note of the fire hydrant requirements for your property and where existing hydrants are (usually the utility company has this information). You may need a certain number of hydrants based on your house size, and those aren't cheap either (the planning department should be able to put you in touch with whoever makes that call). # Don't use Swenson Say Faget for your engineering. In fact, tell everybody you know not to use Swenson Say Faget and tell them to tell everybody they know not to use Swenson Say Faget. Engineering for a typical house usually runs about $5k nowadays, but that's with no special details and the design already ironed out (see (2)). However, because engineers have you at the disadvantage (don't pay them, you get no stamp and no project), you have to be very careful about how you approach them and structure your contract. I unfortunately don't have specific advice for how to work that, as I got suckered and ended up having to pay out something like $15k to get the documents up to a permit-ready level. Keep all communications with them to email or video record conversations and meetings. What I'll try next time is sitting down with the engineer before signing a contract to develop a list of the necessary details needed for permit, then provide specific instructions that details outside of that list must be verified with the client before being worked on. My engineer was trying to develop deck and foundation tie down details when these things were pretty much just being copied and pasted from the Simpson Strongtie catalog. # Request a permit estimate from your jurisdiction at the beginning, as this can also be substantial (Renton wants $5 per square foot, which brings the permit fee up to something like $12k. If you know how they calculate the permit fee, you may also be able to save some money by being clever with your design (like using a crawlspace instead of a full height basement, that sort of thing). # You may also have some strange things buried in the site. Besides requiring disclosure for such knowledge from the realtor doing the sale, utility companies should also be able to tell you if they have buried mains, telecomm, etc. on the site. Make sure these get marked out on the survey and during design! # You can lower the cost and improve the accuracy of the survey by clearing the site of vegetation beforehand. Use caution, however, as actual clearing of ground (that is, removal of root bulbs) may require a permit. You can always cut back brambles and invasives, however, as well as remove any climbing vines from existing trees. That also means that you're free to cut whatever pathways you need to perform such maintenance. # Photodocument everything! Every time you go out to site, bring a point-and-shoot camera and take pictures of the before and after for whatever scope of work you perform. This can also serve as an important legal record if you find that other people are tampering with your site or the stuff growing on it. # The only caution I have with the steel moment frames is to note that some jurisdictions may not allow you to use cables to diagonally brace anymore in residential applications (which I think is crazy if they're allowed in industrial settings, but who knows?). This may not be an issue if you're using true moment frames, of course, but some of the cheaper commercial steel shells still use them. Besides that, I've got pretty much no experience with steel moment frames, so you'll have to let me know how it goes! From Andrew Hi Natalia, good to hear from you, hope all is going well! I have not done a moment (steel) frame house on a slope. But I know this is expensive (double conventional framing at least) because it involves non- conventional builders. Take a look at these very glassy houses by Johnston Architects, johnstonarchitects.com to see wood frames with some steel plates. Usually what is best is a hybrid frame mostly conventional but with a primary façade that is very glassy with special framing. Legally, they do not need an architect but will need an engineer to stamp the engineering drawings that are required. The engineer needs basic floor plans, elevations and a section to do his work. If your friend wants nice details they should get an architect. IF they have all the time in the world then they can learn enough to be their own architect. Architect s fee is2 to 10 percent of estimated total construction cost. Engineers fee is 2 to 4 percent of estimated total construction cost. I am too busy to help now, but that can change in the future. Please keep in touch. -Andrew Also, look at this house, modest budget, recently completed on a steep slope by my good friend Carry Westerbeck. We both worked at Johnston architects for years , now he is on his own (affordable). Westerbeckarchitecture.com